JR 119 & 126

[b.loree]

As I have mentioned previously, one of the very cool things about restoration is that for some reason, people send me their helmets to work on. As such, unlike most of you, I get to work on some pretty rare and expensive leather hats. I take them apart and that can be pretty scary at times because I can't screw up, they don't belong to me. Before I go on with JR 119 and 126., I would like to assure the owners of the "Huge Melon" and "Wurtt Dragoner" helmets that I am still adding finish to their pieces but this process takes some time, especially in the summer where humidity interferes. The best time to lay on finish is in winter when things are "dry". In summer conditions, I am waiting a week between "coats" and there can be 20+ applications before I get things right. So I am still working on them and I very much appreciate the patience of their owners.
These two "old soldiers" from 119 and 126 were sent up to me from NYC recently for some restitch. Both are M95 Wurttemberg helmets and are well marked to their regiments. Surprisingly, as we shall see, they correspond to two Wurtt members from my collection. I have 3 Wurtt helmets in the collection a 119, a 126 and an M15. This is quite a coincidence as far as I am concerned and will form part of this post.
So, the JR 119 only needed the rear visor stitched while both visors had to be done on the 126, I began with it. The 126 has suffered more abuse than it's brother and is a smaller helmet. Both helmets are well marked as we shall see:...JR 119 dated 1905 and 126..1913. To my mind, German helmets produced before the war, were well marked as part of the Imperial procurement process BUT things changed once war had been declared AND once the High Command realised that helmet markings could provide intelligence to the enemy. So let's have a look at the JR119:

A frontal view of JR 119, note the wide visor trim, spike etc is missing because I tell customers, I do not need them for a restitch. The wappen is loop backed. Note the crowns and stag antlers are not voided plus the fine stitching on the visor.

The rear visor is pined for restitch after all old thread has been cleaned out, the stitching is "finer", more stitches per "inch", and the visor seems longer than normal. I remember from back in my childhood,....finer stitching was a mark of quality on a leather product as it is today! Some things never change.....the softer the leather gloves or the leather jacket......+$$$$. All for now, more to come. B

[Lars13]

Very interesting Brian; looking forward to the next post
Best regards, Lars

[b.loree]

Here are the markings:

119.R 1905
Completed visor stitch. The process always has to be finished off with black shoe polish along the stitch line, primarily because stitching causes finish to break off and the polish also seals the new thread.

The stitching on the left side of the visor slanted up towards the edge thanks to the individual who stitched it up in 1905. One hundred and four years later this, created a minor problem for yours truly. I had to be very careful stitching in this area as a result. Restitching or any kind of work on a helmet places a lot of stress on the piece especially the liner and along the stitch line. The liner on this helmet is in good shape.
Brothers in arms:

I mentioned in my introduction, that I have similar helmets from both regiments in my collection. I have posted pics of my OYV/private purchase JR119 with parade trichter before but here we see it with an issued OR's helmet from the same Regiment. My helmet obviously, is from an earlier time due to the bolt on chin scales and higher domed shell. I put a neusilber spike from one of my other helmets on the NYC helme in order to take this photo. Both helmets have extended visors and wider trim than normal....was this a characteristic of JR119??

Side view showing the older style bolt on scales along with the later 1905 M91 posts. Note that my helmet has an OR kokarde and trichter.

A wappen comparison... my helmet has a private purchase wappen (crown and antlers are pierced) but not "frosted" the issued helmet wappen is not pierced. My wappen is screw post while the younger wappen is naturally loop backed. Any other members with JR 119 helmets are welcome to post pictures and further information here.

From my collection, a dunkelblau shoulder strap for JR119.

[b.loree]

The JR 126 helme is small , a size 54cm. fittings were very oxidized, brown in colour. Both visors on this piece had been glued on by a previous owner. Fortunately, the glue was only applied in 2 spots and not along the whole width of the visors. Glue residue was removed before restitch. The rear of the shell had caved in as usual and the piece was hydrated with a hat stretcher in it to get things back into shape.

As usual, the edges of the liner show wear and tear.

Good markings: JR 126 10K 111B 1913

Something I have never seen before...reinforced grommets. The helmet shows no sign of period repair, I believe this was done as part of manufacture.

[JohnM]

Awesome work and documenting Brian!!!! This is like reading a mystery novel! I can't thank you enough for all the effort you put into this art!!!

John

[Sandmann]

Thank you for sharing

[b.loree]

No problem Sandy. John, thank you for your praise and trusting me to work on your helmets!
Both visors are now back on the 126th helmet:

I will be cleaning fittings in the next few days. The helmet was very dirty inside and I used paper towel, warm water and dish soap to wipe out 100 years of dust and dirt.

As always, black shoe polish will be applied along the stitch line but I have not done this yet. There are 2 reasons for this.....despite careful stitching by hand, small pieces of finish always flake off, the polish fills these in. Last, the polish coats the new thread and hopefully preserves it for another 100+ years.

[aicusv]

Love it

[Sandmann]

Well done
Will you rework the missing shellac or will do you plan to leave it as is?

[b.loree]

Replacing missing finish would be up to the owner Sandy. It could be done but would take time and added cost.

[Sandmann]

Thx Brian

[Amybellars]

Brian
Out of curiosity, how many helmets or parts did u ruin before you perfect your restoration skill? You are really superb in your restoration skill.

[b.loree]

Thank you Amy, I have only had one major catastrophe....involving a Hessen officer helmet that was left too long hydrating in the plastic bag. I forgot about it and came back to a real mess! There was mold growing on the calfskin liner, missing finish, collapsed shell. Fortunately, the master restorer, George Birringer was still alive and I sent it to him. He fixed everything and saved my ass!! There were occaisions also where I have had to stop stitching, tear out what I had done and start again as holes were not lined up. I have never ruined a helmet. One of the bad things that can happen, is that the old leather is not up to the stress involved and it tears....along the stitch line or the fold of the liner. You have to glue cloth or thin leather on the tear as you have seen me do on other helmets. I don't like to cause damage but often it can not be helped, after 100 years the leather is too weak.

[b.loree]

The work on the outside finish of the 126th helmet was begun today. First, a light sanding of visors and shell then a cotton ball wet with lacquer thinner is used to melt the dust into the crazings and smooth things out.

All that old lacquer dust can be melted back into the finish.

I also applied a thin layer of finish over the "bald areas" just to stabilize things....I could not resist!

[ebeeby]

Awesome!

[Khukri]

Great job by the Hauben Whisperer.

[Amybellars]

Thank you Amy, I have only had one major catastrophe....involving a Hessen officer helmet that was left too long hydrating in the plastic bag. I forgot about it and came back to a real mess! There was mold growing on the calfskin liner, missing finish, collapsed shell. Fortunately, the master restorer, George Birringer was still alive and I sent it to him. He fixed everything and saved my ass!! There were occaisions also where I have had to stop stitching, tear out what I had done and start again as holes were not lined up. I have never ruined a helmet. One of the bad things that can happen, is that the old leather is not up to the stress involved and it tears....along the stitch line or the fold of the liner. You have to glue cloth or thin leather on the tear as you have seen me do on other helmets. I don't like to cause damage but often it can not be helped, after 100 years the leather is too weak.

You are gifted LOL superb skill.

[Kaiser Bill]

Brian,
In reading your posts on the restoration process the finish that you use is shellac followed by wax shoe polish. To match the thickness of the finish on some helmets many coats are required. On this particular helmet you are sanding the finish and then using lacquer thinner to melt the old finish and smooth things down so you can start the shellac finish. The thinner for shellac is alcohol not lacquer thinner. So with original helmets was lacquer used or was it a combination of shellac and finished off with lacquer? To match the thickness seen especially on visors it would take forever to use lacquer but I could see it as a top coat especially on private purchase helmets. Thoughts?

[b.loree]

Here is a what I use Bill, unfortunately there is no list of chemical contents on the label:

Lee Valley is a widely respected company up here in the North, they produce two or three catalogues of their wares every year...some cool stuff.

[b.loree]

The fill in process has begun:

[aicusv]

Great work. Looking forward to seeing more.

[Kaiser Bill]

The Lee Valley Shellac and Lacquer thinner is a blend of ethanol and isobutylene alcohol for thinning shellac based products and shellac flakes. The interesting thing is it is not for use with nitrocellulose lacquer. ???

[b.loree]

All I know Bill, is that George Birringer told me years ago that he used the natural shellac flakes and that was good enough for me. I saw examples of crap finish jobs using the pre made box store “jug” sh.t which basically in my opinion, ruined helmets. I have never used it. As a long time bar band rock guitarist, I know that the “nitro” was used on all those early 50’s-60’s Fenders and Gibsons however, it is highly flammable! They are using it on higher priced guitars today as supposedly the wood breathes and delivers better tone. However, Clapton would sound like Clapton even on a $200 guitar.

[JohnM]

Brian,

Here is my other 119. A brother to yours! Identified to boot.

John

[JohnM]

Markings

[JohnM]

Identified

[JohnM]

Front view

[b.loree]

Photos of the completed JR 126. Work done...restitch both visors, provide one original trim brad. resolder split brad on spine, clean all fittings, refinish areas of missing lacquer, apply polish to entire helmet to blend in new finish.




This helmet was dried out/shrunk over 100+ years and as a result the brass visor trim was too long when I tried to put it back on. Consequently, approx .25 inches had to be cut off one end of the trim and a new hole drilled for the trim brad. I do not believe in putting extra holes in helmets and I always strive for the restoration to be hidden as much as possible. Thus, cut the trim, drill a new hole and the brad covers the cut end. The side view showing the gap between spine and shell illustrates how much this helmet shrank over the years.

[aicusv]

Well done

[JohnM]

Absolutely amazing work Brian!!! You are indeed an artist! I can't wait to get it back together with it's uniform!

John

[J.LeBrasseur]

Brian- you continue to amaze, will have some work for you when you get state side

James

[911car]

Beautiful result, Brian. Congratulations!
Bruno

[Sandmann]

Very well done, congratulations

[pickelhauben]

I will join the choir .

Great job !!

[b.loree]

My thanks to all for their kind comments.

[Neil Young]

Brian:
It is indeed fantastic to see the results of a true craftsman's work. Bravo!

[JohnM]

Brian and All!

Here is the fruit of your labor! Wow!

I can't thank you enough!

John

[JohnM]

Side view

[JohnM]

Side view

[Sandmann]

Like new... an outstanding job

[Sergei1877]

Photos of the completed JR 126. Work done...restitch both visors, provide one original trim brad. resolder split brad on spine, clean all fittings, refinish areas of missing lacquer, apply polish to entire helmet to blend in new finish.




This helmet was dried out/shrunk over 100+ years and as a result the brass visor trim was too long when I tried to put it back on. Consequently, approx .25 inches had to be cut off one end of the trim and a new hole drilled for the trim brad. I do not believe in putting extra holes in helmets and I always strive for the restoration to be hidden as much as possible. Thus, cut the trim, drill a new hole and the brad covers the cut end. The side view showing the gap between spine and shell illustrates how much this helmet shrank over the years.

just excellent work. No words, great.

[b.loree]

Thank you Sergei as a fellow restorer your words mean a great deal.

[Sandmann]

Brian, may I ask you some questions about shellac?
1. What tool do you use to fill the Areas of missing shellac? Do you use a ball of cotton, like used for a shellac polish for furnitures or do you use a brush?
2. Is it possible to repair a craqueler surface by melting it with thinner, as you did it describe a few posts before?
3. Would you tell us the ingredients and mixture of your Shellac-Polishing or is it a company secret (I could also understand it well )? What consistency should the shellac have?
Regardless of your answer to my questions I‘d like to thank you very much for your informative and inspiring restauration posts

[b.loree]

Hi Sandy, no problems answering your questions....
#1 I use an angled 1/2" brush (1.2 cm) to apply the shellac.

#2 No, that will not work. You can sand the original lacquer and then use a cotton ball wet with thinner to blend in the "dust". This may fill in some fine crazing, but this will not fill in the deep cracks which most old helmets have. To fill them, you have to apply coats of shellac, sand between coats, then smoothing out with cotton ball and thinner. Then apply another coat after drying. By sanding between coats, you are removing the excess shellac on the surface while gradually filling in the cracks.

#3 No "company secret", . I use shellac flakes melted with shellac thinner. There are formulas used by furniture makers available on the internet but they really can't be used for what I do. I am dealing in small amounts, I just pour some thinner in a small jar and keep adding flakes until I think I have the right "consistency". You have to stir the flakes and try to break them up. I will also crush/break them as much as I can before adding to the thinner. A mortar and pestle would be handy for this but I don't have one yet. You let the thinner and flakes melt for a couple of days in a cupboard. Flakes do not like "light" so keep them and your "melt jar" in a cupboard. The next step is to pour off a portion of the melted shellac into a smaller jar and add black dye. The shellac dye is hard to find in small quantities but there is a US company called Stewart Macdonald which sells tools and supplies for luthiers. You want: Concentrated Liquid Stain Color Tone #5040 Black. Be careful with the stain, as it is very easy to get it all over your fingers and work area. I hope this helps.

[b.loree]

A picture is worth a thousand words:

My brushes, the small jar is for the shellac mixture and the pill bottle has thinner in it to clean the brushes.

The bottle of stain and like I said, very easy to get covered in this stuff.

[Sandmann]

Thank you very much Brian, that helps a lot But I guess I still need a lot of time before I will have the courage to ruin a Helmet
But one more question... Do you blend your final coat just with thinner or do you also sand it before blending with sandpaper 600, 800 or an even finer grit?

[b.loree]

I use ooo steel wool over the entire helmet then apply several coats of black shoe polish. This gives me a uniform look/colour over the whole helmet. If you look at period photos, these helmets were extremely shiny when new. Area’s of replaced shellac have this shine which contrasts with the rest of the helmet’s 100 year old finish. Consequently, the use of steel wool and black polish. If you want to try refinishing, I would strongly recommend you practice on an old shell. Last, you must know how to sand and use natural light during this lengthy process.

[b.loree]

PS: Shellac consistency is a bit thicker than water.

[Sandmann]

Thank you very much for your explanation Brian

[Amybellars]

hmm, for sure with my current skill, I will "kill" the helmet. So far I am good with stitching job. So let me graduate from my baby class before moving to your expert levels.