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Thank you Wojtek for mentioning this historical statement👏.

Congratulations for a great job in restoring the monument. The time spent on this monument was not in vain. Congratulations once again.

So far it looks like contemporary art😉. Maybe you are exhibiting in a gallery with contemporary art😃. And seriously good job congratulations.

Well, it's starting to look slow. Now sandpaper and solder to level it out. Then putty and more putty😉. You need a Japanese spatula to apply the putty. Water paper 240, 400, 800 you must have Mr. Wojtek🤔 to level the putty. Maybe change your profession to auto body worker 😉 . Of course...

I see a good topic to work on. The worst part is that the leather is coming apart and will need to be reinforced with elastic glue. Have fun with the cap.

Recently I was wondering what these two beautiful French instruments are used for. At first I thought they were used to make threads on the lathe. Browsing through an online store, I found this out by accident. They are files for repairing threads on screws. As you can see on the side markings...

This is what I had in mind. Sometimes it's hidden behind the end of the back cover. I think so🤔 it's like the manufacturer sewing the cover has an angle to the sewing machine. After all, the picklehaube was handmade too 😎.

My question is whether the tip was made that way. Because I don't see it. This is how it should look according to the original. Overall it looks like very good sewing. Congratulations on your hard work.

Congratulations on such a beautiful collection. I hope to see it in person after Easter Once again, congratulations on a beautiful acquisition to your collection.

I use such a mold for straightening the sheet metal of the front cowl and straightening the skin of the front cowl. For the rear one, I have a different mold. Basic straightening tools.

It is a piece of stainless steel. It is cut and formed to the shape of the front cover as a mold for straightening. Rubber hammer for the sheet metal. I will send pictures tomorrow.

All electroplating work was done cold. I know that there is a way to apply zinc to copper using NaOH. This is followed by annealing at about 380-400°C. This gives very poor results. Is that what you meant, or straightening? As for straightening, a flexible sheet ( tempering of the material) was...

Good job 👍. I remove the old threads with a needle and tweezers.

At most, I'll take it if you don't want it. Dimension 1/8 is 28 coils per inch. I own such tools then I can advise something.

There is a similar tool on ebay in the US. Two tips damaged but it is possible to work with this tool. https://www.ebay.pl/itm/256245410545?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=4908-175131-2357-0&ssspo=uc608huOSMG&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=mwzpqemqsaw&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=MORE

The kit has British 1/4, 3/16, 6/32, 1/8, 3/32, 1/16 inch. I didn't demand a bit, but WD-40 took care of it and the kit is like new. If I find something I'll post a link.

A set from the interwar period. I paid £46.

Here are examples of my work with various nuts. These are tailored to the specific period of the helmet along with the pitch and thread diameters. Making the threads took the most time. Such nuts are made faster because they are made of smooth sheet metal.

And when it comes to ordinary square nuts with finely beveled corners. This means shorter production time.

I recently bought such a tool in the UK. Unfortunately, it is a British inch tool. I would need the measure of the American tool. Because they are two different measures of the number of coils per inch.