Book from 1849 with explanation how to build a helmet

Sandmann

Well-known member
Hello Friends,
maybe it is interesting or useful for some guys who also restores Pickelhaubes. I have found a book from 1849, with a explanation how to build a leather helmet. The construction instructions for some other leather products are also included. For me it is very interesting, hope you‘ll like it too.

Handbuch über Oekonomie-Verwaltungen bei der königl. Preussischen Armee - Page 23

If you have problems with the font or the German language feel free to contact me and I will translate it into english.
 
Hi Sandy,
That's excellent!! It's the first time I see official instructions on how headgear, uniform and equipment are made. :)
Now I will be looking for later versions that describe the following models of headgear, uniform and equipment......
Regards,
Lars
 
Ok, here is my translation. I‘m sorry for the translation quality, but I didn’t know the english terms of tannery and the German language of the 19th century is very overload and apart. So I had to translate the sentences into the modern but vulgar German first 😉

Anyway, maybe it helps together with the original text:
§64: A resistant helmet does not have to be lacquered by heat, but, as a result of the AKO of October 23, 1842, can be also painted with the ordinary regiment lacquer (Regiments-Lack). The helmet is thus made of crude leather and then, like all the rest of black leather, and as it used to be the case with the Tschako, painted by the soldier himself.
Due to the enormous heat, which is necessary when real lacquering, the leather dries out and loses its durability. The stitches and the leather in the seam tear up, as it is also often happened in use. The disadvantage thereby is significant, because during a repair the helmet size can not be obtained. Tear the seams in the helmet body, which often only happens through the hot lacquering, the leather must be tightened for repair. If the leather tears at the point where the front or back visor is stiched, this must be set higher. And in case of a burst of the side panels, these can only be replaced by a larger helmet body.
The bursting of the seams can also happen when the leather, shrunken through the hot-lacquering, expands again in use. If that doesn‘t happen evenly at the helmet body and seams, the leather must inevitably burst, especially if the expansion of the visors is prevented by the metal parts. Even if the visor resists this force, it will probably be bent out and the metal rails are pushed to the head. Wearing is no longer possible due to the pressure feeling that occurs and the main advantage of the helmet, the comfortable wearing, is completely lost.
All these disadvantages can be avoided when the helmet is not lacquered hot with real hot lacquer. The leather keeps his strength, there are no problems when wearing and the soldier can repair it by himself. Maybe a real hot lacquering looks better in the first time, but that passes after a short time.
Anyway, the helmet is made out of a whole washed leather with a weight of about 24 pounds and 1/8 inch thickness. This must be absolutely error-free and not hinged, what you can see when cutting. The skin is then turned up black, whereby the scar side, which comes outside of the helmet, should be smoothed well and the inside must only be free from the harsh. It is not good to buy already manufactured blank leather instead of the washed leather, because it was divided into 2 halves and thus cause higher material losses when cropping, because the leather carrion side is too thinned too much and losses to much of its strength.
§65: For the Liner ordinary black calf leather from 1 1/8 pounds to 1 5/8 pounds should be used, which is as large and elastic as possible. If you take sheep leather, as is the case with current helmets, it becomes cheaper first, but it is not so durable for a long time use and the costs are ultimately higher. A necessary repair of the leather has, except the costs, still the disadvantage that the helmet will be completely unfit during repeated repair. The disadvantage of sheep leather has already been shown after some time of wearing, which caused not only higher costs, but also a reduced the number of helmets in use.
§66: The helmet fittings must be made of strong brass with hardness 12 or 13.
§71: The manufacturing of a helmet is not difficult. Once the leather has been cut out, it is designed with the template so that the halves remain together to get only one seam under the rail. After cut out it will be placed in warm water, where it remains about 15 minutes. Thereafter, it is stretched out on the edge of the table something in the helmet form. The water has to be spreaded out and the edge sharpened greatly on the leather carrion side in a width of 0.5 inches. Then it has to be stretched onto the helmet form, for which 10 nails are enough. The nails have to take about 1 inches away from the helmet seam to have room for stitching. When ni-nailing, the tumbled and spread out must be done at the same time and the resulting wrinkles with the pliers immediately removed. The stitching of the helmet body must be done as long as the leather is still wet. It is important to make the even smallest wrinkles be smoothed. For this, the edge of the helmet body is pushed down with the pliers until it gives up and fixed with nails. The helmet body is always smoothed with a spread out tool and when the leather is well dried it can be taken off from the wooden helmet form.
The stitching of the visor, the side leather and the liner, as well as the attachment of the fittings should be done easily. It is precisely to pay attention to that the parts are correctly positioned and the helmet is not going wrong (this happens when the visor is not sewn in the middle). In addition, the stitches must not be too close together.
§72: It is necessary that the shape of helmet form is worked out exactly so that the helmet later has a good fit and nowhere presses. The helmet presses when the edges of the helmet are concerned at the head, not the pages. This is prevented by the putting out the edges without changing the shape of the helmet. When properly manufacturing, the visor has such a good fit and the mounting rivets of the visor trim do not produce any pressure points on the head.
§73: The helmet spike must be soldered well and the tin be turned so that it does not break so easily. For attachment of all fittings to the helmet, iron nuts are preferably used, since the threads can not be turned so quickly from the soldier. Since the fastening screws of the chin scales are particularly often lost, especially in the cavalry, they should be adjusted as follows: The fastening nuts of the chin scales are extended by a small tube, then put them together through the chin scales and then soldered in a small sheet thereto that the nut is firmly connected to the chin scale. Now, push the screw from the inside of the helmet through the tube and the chin scale is rotated until it is tightly connected. The mother can not be lost so easily and if you also use iron screws, the threads are not used here.
§74: The cocades of the helmets can be made from the leather residues of the helmet cuts. These are then pressed and painted, which is why they are very cheap.
§75: To make the chin scales, the brass links are taken from the manufacturer and used for the chin scale, for the core material old or waste leather can be used. This is then folded in blank leather waste or stripping leather residues. Also, pale leather radius, which is used to manufacture shoes, is conceivable, but only when it was made black before.
 
Thank you very much Sandy for all your efforts and research on this subject of pickelhaube manufacturing. Your translation is much appreciated. This is very interesting! 👍
 
Thanks Sandy for the post and translation
I have made quite a few pickelhaube shells back in the day and I used a similar method
Back then the web was not a thing and eBay did not exist so you did without or made your own
Thanks for sharing
 
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