Pickelhaube Opinion

[b.loree]

I don't think that it has been mentioned.....the M15 Wurtt. wappen is missing the stag antlers which is typical for this design. If this were mine, I think that I would just accept the condition as is and not remove or correct anything. It is a 120+ year old survivor and lucky to be in this condition at all. I would also speculate, that if you removed the black spike base disc, you would find that the cloth underneath does not match the material on the rest of the helmet. My opinion only.

 

[rocky]

Thanks for all the help. I am going to stop by next week to see if I can get it. What kind of cockades would go with this helmet? I know the red, white & black but how about on the other side? Would they & also a chin strap be hard to find?

Thanks,
Rocky

 

[CLOVIS 57]

The black disc should be on the inside and by bending the tabs & placing it on the tabs & bending them back? Is that correct? Again, thanks for all the information.
Rocky

Yes, that's right, but you need a certain 'knack' for it.

 

[CLOVIS 57]

Merci pour votre aide. Je vais passer la semaine prochaine pour voir si je peux l'obtenir. Quel genre de cocardes irait avec ce casque ? Je connais le rouge, le blanc et le noir, mais qu'en est-il de l'autre côté ? Seraient-ils difficiles à trouver, ainsi qu'une mentonnière ?

On the right, the red-white-and-black Reichskokarde. On the left, the black-white-and-black Prussian Landkokarde.




The chinstrap is model M91 or M91/14

If your post sides are in grey iron, you can also use the same chinstrap but in grey iron (M15):


M91 post-side kocade and chinstraps are often missing because of the detachable system. As a result, they are much sought-after. Not a lot on offer, and a lot in demand.

 

[rocky]

Thanks again,

Rocky

 

[Peter B]

My Baden train helmet also has the plate on the outside, and it looks like it’s never been on the inside. I will leave it as-is.

 

[Zebedeus]

Well done Peter. I agree with you 100%

 

[rocky]

Clovis,
what style Pickelhaube is the one you posted?

Peter, nice Pickelhaube.

Also it was mentioned that the front plate should be magnetic. Correct? When the leather strip holding the front plate on is missing or it has a piece of wire or a nail holding it on, etc. do they have something to replace that?

Thanks again,
Rocky

 

[b.loree]

Leather wedges through the helmet plate loops is the proper method. It is very common to find wire, paper clips, match sticks etc used after 100 years. These hundred year old wedges often break if you try and remove them.

 

[rocky]

b. loree,

Could you buy repro leather wedges or do people just make their own? Regarding the front plate on the helmet I posted here, should the front plate be magnetic or non magnetic? Thanks for your replies.

Rocky

 

[CLOVIS 57]

Hello,




As I've said on several occasions, these incorrect reassemblies of the Teller between the base and the hull were made when the trophy was being transported home. That's why this 'modification' is called 'period'. It's normal that the Teller's trace is not very visible, as it has been sitting on top for 1 century. This in no way justifies such a montage. What's more, you can clearly see here that the folding lugs have been tortured.

 

[rocky]

Another thing:
the magnetism of the fittings should be checked... The plates look grey-iron to me, but the tip is not the M15 retractable model.

Hi Clovis,

sorry about the misunderstanding. My only questions were what to replace wire or nails holding the front plate on. I know originally there were leather wedges that either were removed or rotted away. So I was just wondering what to use instead of the paper clips, nails, wire. That is why I asked if they sell reproduction leather wedges or do you have to make your own. My second question was, you had mentioned in one of the posts to check the magnetism of the plate so that is why I asked if it should be magnetized or non magnetized.

Thanks,
Rocky

 

[rocky]

Thank You all for your help. Sorry if I ask too many questions.

Thanks,
Rocky

 

[Peter B]

Thank You all for your help. Sorry if I ask too many questions.

Thanks,
Rocky

Never too many questions on this forum. That's one of the main reasons it is so great, help form fellow enthusiasts.

 

[CLOVIS 57]

Hello Rocky,
The rule is simple:
---If the fittings (tip, snap ring, side posts, etc.) are brass, the plate must be brass.
If nickel silver, ditto.
If in gray-painted steel, ditto.
For the leather corners, I use a cutter to cut a 2cm-long v in an old leather belt.

 

[rocky]

Thank you for the replies & help.

Best regards to all,

Rocky