We have all had to deal with cleaning up preliminary work related to our hobby at some point.
I’d really like to know how you all clean up the various parts to make them look good as a whole. I know you can polish copper with copper polish, but there must be a way to clean copper that is heavily tarnished or dirty. Also, what is the best way to clean the leather that a Pickelhaube is typically made of?
Autosol (made in Solingen!) is the best cleaner polish I have ever used. It removes corrosion and polishes at the same time, and if you use it sparingly it won't over clean or make something look too shiny. Many old rusty or corroded decrepit objects spring back to life with just one thin application. On very bad rust I will use up to three applications with a scrub pad. I use a "no scratch" scrub pad on brass. If you choose to leave brass uncoated without something like Renaissance wax or Howard's feed and wax, it will develop a natural patina within a few months, quicker if left in a humid environment. . I avoid "brass polish" because it usually doesn't clean that well and leaves a residue that for some reason is harder to remove than autosol residue. Sometimes I also use a bit of oil after the autosol to help remove very stubborn corrosion because the autosol is just polished off and I don't want to overdo it by applying more. If I just want to protect a bare metal wappen or spike, without the annoyance of build up, I use the feed&wax because the consistency is lighter and much easier to remove excess. I may apply it again every couple years if it looks dull.
I used to use flitz liquid polish on blued and painted surfaces because it is more gentle, but I have also used autosol on many blued or chemically darkened finishes without causing damage. Just remember that sometimes a patina is formed in the light spots so they will become lighter when cleaned and look uneven.
As for leather it's best to leave it alone as much as possible. Renaissance wax is safe to apply as a protection but serves no benefit to the leather.
If I have an item that is very badly dried out and stiff, I will initially apply a thin coat of Howard's leather conditioner. It darkens the leather and can make it more pliable. This is not regular leather oil, it's a cream meant for leather restoration. In an extreme case, I have a sabretache that was disgusting and stiff as a board, and after a few applications it came back to life and can actually be opened again. However I do not usually use it after the initial application because it will break down old rot on cracked or fragile surfaces.. Maybe every five years I will apply another very thin coat of it looks dried out again, avoiding the cracks and stitching as much as possible. I've also used it on neglected leather helmets and liners and it brings back the shine and darkens the leather again. But again, it MUST NOT be used frequently. Just dust off with a soft cloth. A side benefit is that it can also be applied to the metal parts and acts as a protectant like the Howard's feed&wax (basically various combinations of beeswax and carnauba wax and a touch of oil). You just apply a thin coat, let it dry and buff with a soft cloth.
I realize many pickelhaube owners are repulsed by the idea of applying anything to leather, ever. While I do agree for the most part, I tend to buy neglected items that have been drying out for 100 years and will only deteriorate further if left neglected in the name of preserving history. It happens more often than not in the US, where everything is treated like a civil war relic, or where German helmets were acquired by GIs or bond purchasers and thrown in a closet to deteriorate. Same with swords, my main interest. I strongly believe it is my duty as a custodian of history to "save" and preserve these specimens as best as possible and to stop further rust and decay, not to just allow it to degrade further. I also do many extreme, complete overhauls but only when completely necessary to save the object. Each specimen is different and will tell you how it should look as you approach the project.
I wish I had the ability to control the humidity better in my 200 year old house. I keep my best specimens in a small room with a dehumidifier but in the summer months it rarely gets below 50. However leather isn't like metal. I actually prefer my leather helmets in a slightly higher humidity to prevent premature drying out, and move leather objects away from heat in the winter. I have humidity monitors in all of the rooms where specimens are displayed or stored, and in all the gun safes holding my best swords.
Hopefully all my rambling has helped give you some ideas.
Best regards, Geoff
