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I really like ear cut outs! The paint appears to have texture like used on transitional ww2 re-works. I might be tempted to replace the liner with an original ww2 one. Either way, great find. Ron

Did you browse the “Kinder Helme” section listed in the home page? There are several examples there. These are fairly scarce and difficult to find in good condition.

Very nice! When I see a row of pickelhaubes on display, this model always catches my attention first.

Brian, I checked my thread stock , and for officer helmets I have used 100% cotton button thread and 24% cotton/74% nylon extra heavy duty upholstery thread. The purist might not like the latter choice. The linen thread comes from a leather craft supply in New York. I have stitched six...

I use 0.55 mm linen thread for enlisted helmets as they used a heavier gage than that used on officer grade. As long as it is relatively new, I have never had a break, but that could be due to the heavier gage. It’s available in black or a light tan which is identical to period faded white...

I agree with Brian. The hardware is $600 retail U.S. Plus, the leather looks like it is in solid condition. The toughest part will be finding an original leather liner. I have made these from thin tan leather, and you may have to consider doing this. They make scissors that have scalloped...

What are your thoughts? I have had both brass and grey missing heads, with some missing only the crown. I have read theories that these were used post-war and others that they were removed in defiance to the Kaiser for surrendering. If used post war, why would they still be wearing...

I agree. It’s interesting that Robert Lubstein, better known as Erel, produced fiber shako’s between the wars, then produced fiber shako’s and officer parade helmets during WW2. I wonder if they evolved from Depaheg?

Wonderful display, including the helmets in the background. What can you tell us about the minature 1/3 scale spiked helmet? I have a twin to it that I purchased 25 years ago and would like to know where they originated. Ron

Try gel type paint stripper. Brush it on with a tooth brush nice and thick. Let it soak for 10 minutes and you should see the paint wrinkle and lift. Use the same tooth brush and scrub the paint off. It will probably require more than one coat to get down in all the creases and fine details...

Like you, I buy rough helmets thinking I will use the parts, and then decide “I can save this”. It’s good to see you putting this one back in shape. How did you repair the tear on the right side?

Good buy. That was a very fair price for a felt helmet with nice liner. Looks so much better with the different front plate. I have to agree with John Josef on the chin strap. To me, the leather look too thick, too narrow, and I believe bead blasted. I may be wrong. The buckle sliders look...

Nice method to restore a rusty part! I am impressed with your results. USMC-EOD mentioned Evaporust. When there is some original finish left on a part, I like to soak in Evaporust for one to four hours, checking the progress every 30 minutes. This lets the original finish remain and a...

Always good to see someone bring new life to these helmets. Another one saved!

Very nice Dave! All the good stuff is gone by the time I get to the SOS on Thursday. This Pickelhaube is on my list also. Ron

Looks fine! Good for another 100 years! What repairs did you have to make? I see the rear visor restitch and the front visor Brad install. The front plate has some nice gilt remaining. Always nice to have an original chin strap.

Only 175 stitches to go! Looking good. Brian, late last night I was checking the visor to body alignment on a re-stitch project, and realized the lighting was great with an overhead LED 2 tube light. I went ahead and stitched er up. Like you, I always look for direct sunlight. The same...

Looks great with the steins! Nice acquisition.

The shell has slots, so a front plate with normal loops should fit, if you find the correct size plate. The round hole below the slots are for the brad that fastened the front of the liner band. Finding a silver plate and spike is not impossible if you are patient, but the four brads will be...

Your “fixturing” or clamping methods look similar to some I have used. You do need to use some duct tape to hold everything together. LOL