A
Anonymous
Guest
Hi John:
Generally I would prefer to leave a nice even patina intact (as long as there are no fingerprints which might further corrode the surface. However, this helmet proved to be such a mixed bag, a complete overhaul was necessary.
I use Nevr-Dull wadding to remove the lion's share of the grime on non gilt brass or Neusilber. Once the surface begins to shine, I remove all the Nevr-Dull residue and proceed to the Simichrome. This stuff is incredible. I work on a very small section at a time, using light even pressure and a 100% cotton knit cloth (old undershirt). I'm an absolute nut case when it comes to abrasives and swirl marks, but Simichrome has never let me down. It almost seems to vaporize oxidation on contact.
I've seen Brian achieve the same results with a buffing wheel and jeweler's rouge, but I find hand polishing offers pinpoint control.
As for the helmet surface, get ready to gasp, two coats of black Parade Gloss boot polish. After the first coat has been buffed, the second receives a "spit shine" minus the saliva (I use distilled water) This takes longer to buff out, but the finish approaches what one sees in the studio portraits. Since a helmet is not a pair of shoes there is little chance of cracking. For those who fear some corrosive chemical meltdown from boot polish, Parade gloss is largely carnauba wax with a little bit of silicone. It's bound to be a heck of a lot safer for the helmet than whatever substance Müller III polished it with.
I still have the Dragoner eagle, and no immediate plans for it.
Chas.
Generally I would prefer to leave a nice even patina intact (as long as there are no fingerprints which might further corrode the surface. However, this helmet proved to be such a mixed bag, a complete overhaul was necessary.
I use Nevr-Dull wadding to remove the lion's share of the grime on non gilt brass or Neusilber. Once the surface begins to shine, I remove all the Nevr-Dull residue and proceed to the Simichrome. This stuff is incredible. I work on a very small section at a time, using light even pressure and a 100% cotton knit cloth (old undershirt). I'm an absolute nut case when it comes to abrasives and swirl marks, but Simichrome has never let me down. It almost seems to vaporize oxidation on contact.
I've seen Brian achieve the same results with a buffing wheel and jeweler's rouge, but I find hand polishing offers pinpoint control.
As for the helmet surface, get ready to gasp, two coats of black Parade Gloss boot polish. After the first coat has been buffed, the second receives a "spit shine" minus the saliva (I use distilled water) This takes longer to buff out, but the finish approaches what one sees in the studio portraits. Since a helmet is not a pair of shoes there is little chance of cracking. For those who fear some corrosive chemical meltdown from boot polish, Parade gloss is largely carnauba wax with a little bit of silicone. It's bound to be a heck of a lot safer for the helmet than whatever substance Müller III polished it with.
I still have the Dragoner eagle, and no immediate plans for it.
Chas.
