JzP Light finish restoration

[Pontrest]

Here's my latest project; a nice JzP M1915 missing the spike (yes, I'm interested if you have one), but it's the color of this one that I find intriguing. Before removing the Wappen and Spike base, I thought it was a stripped JzP, but now I see indications that this may be a lighter colored JzP than others I own. The finish does not appear to be stripped steel, it appears to be a lighter version of the oxidized finish the JzPs had. There are also traces of the original oxidized grey finish on the spike base, spike base studs, and on the steel trim around the helmet. First time I've run into this, so it's kind of exciting.

My plan is to gently use a higher grit emory cloth on the rusty parts of the helmet, as I don't want to remove or damage any of the remaining finish. It does not appear the spike base or liner have ever been removed, so this is kind of a treat.

Open to comments and recommendations, as I am trying to learn how to be the best caretaker of these pieces of history.

I need to remove the liner, and one M91 post, in order to tap out a dent along the side of the helmet, so I've applied Neatsfoot oil to the liner to make it more supple so it doesn't tear when I remove it.

Happy to receive comments.
Cheers,
Tim

 

[Rkinkade]

Tim,

The good news is the spike you need is standard m15 Pickelhaube. The correct spike for an m15 kuirassier is different and near impossible to find on the loose. Rather than Emory cloth, you might try using 0000 steel or brass wool and penetrating oil (a good brand like Kroil). It will take longer, but yield smoother results. If there are pits, then you will have to use something more aggressive. As far as the side post removal, if I remember they are crimped and soldered in place so they don’t rotate. If you have to remove one it is not impossible, just will take some time and soldering skill. Removing the liner is easy. Bend the rear and the two side brads out, remove the side brads, and pull the front of the liner down, slipping the band off the rear brad. It will remain in place retained between the tail section and the body.
Good luck.
Ron

 

[911car]

Tim,

The good news is the spike you need is standard m15 Pickelhaube. The correct spike for an m15 kuirassier is different and near impossible to find on the loose. Rather than Emory cloth, you might try using 0000 steel or brass wool and penetrating oil (a good brand like Kroil). It will take longer, but yield smoother results. If there are pits, then you will have to use something more aggressive. As far as the side post removal, if I remember they are crimped and soldered in place so they don’t rotate. If you have to remove one it is not impossible, just will take some time and soldering skill. Removing the liner is easy. Bend the rear and the two side brads out, remove the side brads, and pull the front of the liner down, slipping the band off the rear brad. It will remain in place retained between the tail section and the body.
Good luck.
Ron

Ron,
These are excellent advice. One caveat though: the M15 JzP detachable spike is not the same as on the standard m15 Pickelhaube. It is higher, slightly wider, and of course difficult to find as a spare part.

 

[Pontrest]

Tim,

The good news is the spike you need is standard m15 Pickelhaube. The correct spike for an m15 kuirassier is different and near impossible to find on the loose. Rather than Emory cloth, you might try using 0000 steel or brass wool and penetrating oil (a good brand like Kroil). It will take longer, but yield smoother results. If there are pits, then you will have to use something more aggressive. As far as the side post removal, if I remember they are crimped and soldered in place so they don’t rotate. If you have to remove one it is not impossible, just will take some time and soldering skill. Removing the liner is easy. Bend the rear and the two side brads out, remove the side brads, and pull the front of the liner down, slipping the band off the rear brad. It will remain in place retained between the tail section and the body.
Good luck.
Ron

Ron, I happen to have some 0000 steel wool on hand, and will give it a try, as I don't want to strip the remaining finish from the steel surface. I don't have Kroil, but I do have a bottle of Kramer's Best Antique Improver, which I have so far been very impressed with as far as performance on my antique helmets, guns, and bayonets. I'll use the 0000 steel wool and will follow up with this post.

After I get the liner to a place where it doesn't crumble when touched or moved, I'll do as you suggest to remove it from the helmet. I have had to remove an M91 side post, and luckily, it was only crimped, not soldered. I don't know if it had been soldered previously but the solder had been removed, but It wasn't terribly difficult to remove. The difficult part for me was to adjust the replacement side post, as it was not positioned properly, and I had to secure it, heat the solder holding the crimp flanges in place, and reposition them. It took myself and my uncle both working on it; him with a brazing torch, me with needle nose pliers, repositioning the crimp flanges. We got it right, and the helmet looks good now. In this case, I will not need to adjust anything; just remove the side post, gently hammer out the depressed metal, polish the area with the 0000 steel wool while I have the post removed, and replace the post.

As previously stated, if anyone has a spare M15 JzP spike they are willing to part with, I'm your huckleberry.....

Cheers,
Tim

 

[Rkinkade]

911car,

Thank you for that detail! I checked my two m15 jzp and they do in fact have the taller spike. I had noticed one being taller, but thought that was just a manufacturers variation. Always nice to learn something new.

A related question……..while looking at my standard m15 helmets (none had taller spikes), I noticed two were shorter than the rest. Is this a standard variant or were these unique to a specific application?

Oh, and I like your user name. I seem to recall from posts that it relates to a 944T? In the 80’s I owned a 1978 924 limited edition with the strobed checkerboard interior. Also an original 1956 Speedster. Sold the Speedster and built a replica Speedster which I still have and don’t worry about getting damaged. Sorry for getting off-topic, but I like cars also.

Ron

 

[911car]

Ron,
Yes, my pseudo relates to... the Carrera. I have one that I do not drive enough. But a 1956 Speedster, I am impressed! You must have been feeling like James Dean.
It is nice to also meet petrolheads on the forum. Coert (coert65) is very much into motorbikes, and I am too.
To get back on-topic, I cannot remember of shorter spikes on common M15s. I will inquire...
Bruno

 

[coert65]

Ron,
Yes, my pseudo relates to... the Carrera. I have one that I do not drive enough. But a 1956 Speedster, I am impressed! You must have been feeling like James Dean.
It is nice to also meet petrolheads on the forum. Coert (coert65) is very much into motorbikes, and I am too.
To get back on-topic, I cannot remember of shorter spikes on common M15s. I will inquire...
Bruno

I am now more into motorcycles, then again I alway's was. But I also liked cars, especially the older ones. I used to own a Ford Escort Mexico, in full race trim, rollcage, the lot. And a BMW 2002Tii, an early one with the round rearlights, that one had twin webercarbs, a highlift camshaft, 5 speed gearbox and a limited slip diff. Full rollcage, and a stripped out interior. That car was quite a brutal one! My BMW 323i was fast, but not as fast as the 2002. Those day's are gone now, but I liked them a lot.

Regards, Coert.