Steve Nick
Well-known member
That's a very helpful post Brian. I've not been challenged with re-shaping to that extent before so nice to see some detailed instruction as to how to go about it.
Mecklenburg Officer JR 90
- Thread starter b.loree
- Start date
Plan B continues:
The hydration method worked and the new rear visor turned out quite well
Back into proper shape.
We have to use the shellac lines to line things up.
We have a pretty good match up here, it's not perfect but it is going to work.
Some of the stitch holes will match up but others will not and new holes will have to be drilled along the stitch line. Hopefully, not too many! Now, I need a bright sunny day to start stitching.
The hydration method worked and the new rear visor turned out quite well
Back into proper shape.
We have to use the shellac lines to line things up.
We have a pretty good match up here, it's not perfect but it is going to work.
Some of the stitch holes will match up but others will not and new holes will have to be drilled along the stitch line. Hopefully, not too many! Now, I need a bright sunny day to start stitching.
Last edited:
Only 175 stitches to go! Looking good. Brian, late last night I was checking the visor to body alignment on a re-stitch project, and realized the lighting was great with an overhead LED 2 tube light. I went ahead and stitched er up. Like you, I always look for direct sunlight. The same light is horrible for this kind of detail during daylight. You might try this sometime if you don’t mind working after dark. Ron
Completed today and a significant step closer to ending this project:
The stitch line is perfect! The process was not easy but I did not have to drill any new stitch holes. Initially, I was concerned that the spine prongs, screw post would not line up but things went well.
The new/original visor certainly looks better than a "patched up" one would. Next, we deal with the silk interior. I have a couple of slightly torn originals but again size is a factor here. We may have to install a repro from Poland.
New interior stitch line.
The stitch line is perfect! The process was not easy but I did not have to drill any new stitch holes. Initially, I was concerned that the spine prongs, screw post would not line up but things went well.
The new/original visor certainly looks better than a "patched up" one would. Next, we deal with the silk interior. I have a couple of slightly torn originals but again size is a factor here. We may have to install a repro from Poland.
New interior stitch line.
pionierhorn
Active member
Brian, Very nice work, looking forward to seeing the completed helmet Alan G
2nd.Leibhusar
Well-known member
Beautifull Brian,... incredible stitching
bravo !
bravo !
John Josef
Well-known member
Great work 
I use 100% cotton vintage machine thread and "glover needles" although you can also use regular sewing needles. The glover needles are not a brand, they are specifically designed for stitching thin leather gloves. You must apply beeswax when you cut the length of thread you need and repeat throughout the stitching. You must also move your needle along the thread so that the eye of the needle does not stay in one place. If you fail to do this the "eye" will fray and break your thread. Do not try using linen thread, one would think that it is stronger than cotton but for some reason, it breaks easily. Modern thread of the proper thickness always contains nylon for strength so it can't be used unless you don't care about "black lighting".
I use 0.55 mm linen thread for enlisted helmets as they used a heavier gage than that used on officer grade. As long as it is relatively new, I have never had a break, but that could be due to the heavier gage. It’s available in black or a light tan which is identical to period faded white thread seen on some helmets. For officer I use upholstery gage 100% cotton. This is slightly heavier than standard clothing sewing thread. I use assorted gage tapestry needles which are blunt tipped. I used sharp ones for 35 years before I ran across these and will never go back. The trick to eliminate, or at least greatly reduce, getting un-wanted knots as you go is to unwind your needle/thread every three or four stitches. As you stitch you are unknowingly spiraling the thread. I find that I use about 50 inches of thread to stitch a single visor both passes. When I start stitching, I leave 6 inches of free thread before the triple stop knot so that it is easier to tie off the final stitch at the end of the second pass. Definitely re-wax every 20 or thirty stitches.
Very interesting to hear other approaches to haube stitching. As I said, my experience with vintage linen was frustrating and not good, it kept breaking. Perhaps modern linen would not have these problems?? On the other hand, I have never seen linen thread used by the original manufacturers. In the many that I have worked on, either OR or officer the thread is always cotton. I believe that this was a matter of economy....a linen shirt even today is much more expensive than a cotton one for example. As to tapestry needles, I would like to try those out and will do a search on the net. As to "upholstery gage 100% cotton" I am going to look into that as well. I am surprised that the "upholstery industry" today has any use for 100% cotton. My decades of searching never turned up anything of that nature, any thing of proper thickness has nylon in it! 
. Book bindery thread is another source which I have explored, it comes in the natural colour but you could dye it black if needed. Anyway R I very much appreciate your comments here and sharing your experience.
. Book bindery thread is another source which I have explored, it comes in the natural colour but you could dye it black if needed. Anyway R I very much appreciate your comments here and sharing your experience. 