kaiserzeit
New member
Gentlemen,
It is probably best if this entry becomes a "work in progress" until everyone is satisfied that we have it right. I particularly defer to Brian and Tony in this regard.
Here is my shot at "How to refurbish a warped Pickelhaube." I warn you, this approach sounds scarey but, if you move with care, is just fine:
1) First off, this method relates to a helmet with an enlisted man's style, leather only, liner (not an officer's silk and leather liner) and no paper sticker tags.
2) Secondly, think of how your wife would treat her hands:
- She would not put her hands in scalding hot water or expose her hands to hot, dry air for extended periods.
- She probably uses some sort of skin conditioner to soften and moisturise her hands.
****The same psychology applies to 100-year old Pickelhaubes.
3) Remove wappen, chinscales and cockades and (if it can be done easily) the spike.
For clarity, it is risky to bend and re-bend metal tabs on the backs of metal helmet parts. These tabs often can only be bent and re-bent 3 or 4 times before they break.
4) Dunk the helmet in a pailful of warm (not hot) water and let it soak for just long enough to become pliable. It doesn't take long, only a few minutes.
5) Now is a good time to clean off any crud on your helmet with soft bristle brush and some saddle soap. Rinse with clean warm water after cleaning.
6) Place the helmet on a round/oval form to approximate the shape of the human head. Best is something plastic, glazed pottery or glass which will not transfer anything to the leather (i.e. not wood). My favourite is one of my wife's kitchen bowls (inverted) that just happens to be the right size.
Leave in a dark, dry, not too warm place (back shelf of a closet) for several days and allow the helmet to dry naturally - no heat source, no hair dryers. Don't rush this process or the leather will shrink like you wouldn't believe.
7) Re-condition the leather with a good quality leather conditioner like Lexol (a U.S. brand) or even some un-scented glycerine (the stuff our Grannies used to use on their skin).
Don't overdo the conditioner, a little bit goes a long way. You are better to do several light applications, allowing the helmet to sit overnight between applications, rather than a few heavy applications.
8) After the conditioner has had a chance to soak in, you can re-assemble your helmet and you're done!
There, I hope this helps.
Please, if you feel strongly that anything in the above could cause damage to a helmet, do not hesitate to correct me. Once we get this recipe 'right' it can be a standard method that members can use with confidence.
Cheers,
Laurie
It is probably best if this entry becomes a "work in progress" until everyone is satisfied that we have it right. I particularly defer to Brian and Tony in this regard.
Here is my shot at "How to refurbish a warped Pickelhaube." I warn you, this approach sounds scarey but, if you move with care, is just fine:
1) First off, this method relates to a helmet with an enlisted man's style, leather only, liner (not an officer's silk and leather liner) and no paper sticker tags.
2) Secondly, think of how your wife would treat her hands:
- She would not put her hands in scalding hot water or expose her hands to hot, dry air for extended periods.
- She probably uses some sort of skin conditioner to soften and moisturise her hands.
****The same psychology applies to 100-year old Pickelhaubes.
3) Remove wappen, chinscales and cockades and (if it can be done easily) the spike.
For clarity, it is risky to bend and re-bend metal tabs on the backs of metal helmet parts. These tabs often can only be bent and re-bent 3 or 4 times before they break.
4) Dunk the helmet in a pailful of warm (not hot) water and let it soak for just long enough to become pliable. It doesn't take long, only a few minutes.
5) Now is a good time to clean off any crud on your helmet with soft bristle brush and some saddle soap. Rinse with clean warm water after cleaning.
6) Place the helmet on a round/oval form to approximate the shape of the human head. Best is something plastic, glazed pottery or glass which will not transfer anything to the leather (i.e. not wood). My favourite is one of my wife's kitchen bowls (inverted) that just happens to be the right size.
Leave in a dark, dry, not too warm place (back shelf of a closet) for several days and allow the helmet to dry naturally - no heat source, no hair dryers. Don't rush this process or the leather will shrink like you wouldn't believe.
7) Re-condition the leather with a good quality leather conditioner like Lexol (a U.S. brand) or even some un-scented glycerine (the stuff our Grannies used to use on their skin).
Don't overdo the conditioner, a little bit goes a long way. You are better to do several light applications, allowing the helmet to sit overnight between applications, rather than a few heavy applications.
8) After the conditioner has had a chance to soak in, you can re-assemble your helmet and you're done!
There, I hope this helps.
Please, if you feel strongly that anything in the above could cause damage to a helmet, do not hesitate to correct me. Once we get this recipe 'right' it can be a standard method that members can use with confidence.
Cheers,
Laurie
