WW1 Visor hats?

rskins7125

New member
Hello. Can anyone tell if these are authentic? Prices good?
Thanks in advance.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/German-WWI-Saxon-Uhlan-Mutze-Kratchen-/252743703571" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/German-WWI-ORIGINAL-Prussian-Jaeger-NCO-EM-Visor-Cap-/252740371663" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/WWI-ORIGINAL-Prussian-Hussar-Officers-Visor-Cap-/252743352983" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
Prices are good if you like moth eaten caps.

When I started collecting imperial hats, I got some good advice from Tony at kaisersbunker. I'll post it below and I don't think he will mind.

By the way, Tony is selling quite a few of his imperial caps right now.



Tony said:
Hi Tom,

As requested, below are the guidelines I suggest for collecting Imperial German Mützen, which applies to Tunics and Pickelhauben as well:

Please use Kaiser's Bunker as a tool, and in your case, especially Kaiser's Bunker Guide to Imperial German Cloth Headgear 1842 - 1918. The site was put on the net specifically to help collectors by exposing the characteristics and detailed photos of original examples. It is there for you, so please use it.

There are three things you need to look for when buying Imperial German Mützen:

1. Condition
2. Condition
3. Condition

Worn condition for Feldgrau hats and tunics is much more acceptable than for Dunkelblau. Feldgrau caps or tunics with wear, repairs, damage etc. are still desirable and have good vlaue. But on Dunkelblau caps and uniforms, mothing, damage, wear, etc. has a severe impact on value and re-sale. All items have wear and age, and some moth tracking, that's normal. However, for pre-war headgear and tunics, get the absolutely best condition items you can. You will never regret it.

You buy a moth-eaten or poor condition Mütze, you own a moth-eaten or poor condition Mütze. To collectors like myself, they have limited value. It does not matter how "rare" it is. If it is trashed, it is trashed. You have to decide if you want:

a) a cheaper cap that will many flaws that will always be a mediocre example and have less value; or

b) spend a bit more for a top example that will escalate in value.

In Imperial Germany, everyone wore a visor cap. Rat inspector, ladder-maker, lamp-lighter, you name it. These show up on the market all the time being sold as German Army when they are not. There is one important rule to remember about Imperial military caps: The color of all three levels of piping is always the same. Usually, the piping and band are the same color, but even for the few arms that utilized a different color of band from the piping like Jäger zu Pferde, Husaren, Beamte, and those that wore black bands w/ red piping (Verkehrstruppen, Pionier, Artillerie etc.) the three layers of piping always matches. There is only one regiment in the German army that did not have piping along the lower band: Ulanen Regt Nr. 16. However, even with this unit the top piping and the piping on the top of the band match. There is NO military unit of any size where the piping is two different colors. This is always a sign that the cap is civilian. However, several of the Husaren Regt had an extra row of piping in a different colour above the band. But the rule still applies, the other three rows of piping match.

Finally, I have three "rules" for buying Imperial German headgear and uniforms:

1. The seller's description means nothing. Repeat: The seller's description means NOTHING. Do not believe a seller's description of anything you are looking at. Use your eyes to look at the item, use references, use my web site, compare to originals, and decide for yourself WHAT it is and IF it is correct and original.

2. If it is not correct, do not rationalize "well they could have...." etc. Just do not buy it.

3. If you buy junk, you will own junk. If you spend a bit more and get top condition and all original parts, the value will escalate, and you will enjoy it more.
 
Tony without Kaiser said:
Quality trumps quantity every time. No question :eek:ccasion5:

This is the best advice, that I often ignore, but you have to look at why you are buying an artifact and what you are going to use it for. For example, early in 2014, I was asked by our local museum to do a display on WWI and the early battles, most of my collection is late war as it started around my grandfather's artifacts and history. I needed an early French uniform in a hurry and I was on a budget. I was able to find a decent kepi for a bargain and a kapote that had the wrong insignia with some light exposure damage and minor cloth damage for about 1/5th the cost of a excellent example. The red trousers were going to cost about $300 for a nice pair but I found a pair that was missing half the belt on the back with damage to the bottom of the legs (that is covered by the leggings) for less than $80. The display came together in time and displayed well, but while the nice trousers I passed for $300 are now binging between $500 and $600, the ones I paid $80 for have not increased in value, and I probably could not get what I paid out of them. For me this is not a problem as I did not buy them for an investment or even for the collection, they fill a hole and have served well for many displays I have set up for the public since I acquired them. They are better suited for this purpose as these artifacts are handled often and the risk of damage is always there. I have a few items in my collection that fit into the "quality" category and they are seldom used in public displays, not just because of the risk from the public, but the extra handling by me has the potential of causing a degradation of quality, so while the quality items are more valuable in the collection, for me they are of less value for educational purposes.
That being said, what Tony said is the best advice for any collector.
 
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