Sure!
My spike looked just like yours when it was bent.
So, what I did, was I found a short wooden dowel a little larger than the inner diameter than the inside of the spike, put a screw into the center of one end, wrapped the screw tightly with tape, and chucked it up on my power drill.
Then I put my zip-tied drill into my shop vice so it would run on it's own so i could use both of my hands, and i used rough sand paper to make the end of the dowel fit tightly into the open end of the spike. Basically ran a poor-man's lathe...
Then I used small pieces of scrap wood to support the spike in the jaws of my spike, and bent the shift of the spike back in the opposite direction of the bend until it was straight.
When I first did this, I was a little worried that it might bend the other side down into the same area, but the metal wants to basically go back into the same shape it was formed in. Mine went back into shape just fine.
The gold paint on your eagle, spike and base, and nuts should come off fine with acetone if the parts are originally parkerized. Acetone will not affect a parkerized finish, in my experience.
The light pitting on your outer shell can be eliminated if you buff it out with a buffing wheel and rouge. I used a soft orbital sander with fine grit paper on it to work on a helmet once first, and it knocked the fine light pitting back fairly nicely before buffing.
If you buff it, you will need to remove your liner, as the pins will catch on the cloth of the buffing wheel. If you can remove your M91 side posts, it will help as well with this process. The buffing wheel and rouge will remover original parkerizing finish if you don't remove them.
If the M91 posts are soldered on from the interior, then you will need to leave them on and just live with them getting shiny, unless you heavily tape them off.
It sounds like a scary and ugly process, and I was actually worried about doing this kind of thing the first time I attempted it.
But my metal working buddy Lu told me that doing this type of work on these types of helmets was really no different than what the old Regimental Armorors would be doing to repair damaged gear within a military unit during that time frame.
He said the old French heavy cavalry barracks in France all had big sand boxes behind the barracks so that cavalrymen could get the initial scrub on their iron and steel cuirasses and helmets and other equipment prior to final polishing.
And finally, he also told me that everyone loves to eat sausage, but nobody wants to actually see how it is made. He basically told me to stop being a pansy about it, and showed me how to "make the sausage" to get a couple of my metalhelme looking good again.
He was right! And I have been fixing my stuff when it needs it ever since.
That is why my hat is off to Brian, and the great work he is doing. It takes guts to work on other folks helmets with everything that could go wrong. I appreciate the pro-tips he drops here on the site so I can continue to fix my own stuff. And I'm grateful for a section on this site for pickelhaube restoration.
Good luck, and keep posting your results and findings!
Bryan.